Why do I always sell Joe Haydn short in my mind? Admittedly when I listen to records it's usually because I have to. But once in a while I seek nepenthe and surcease from sorrow by sneaking a hark to something I want to hear. And it's usually a piece by one of the establishment-approved biggies -- Bach, Mozart, Schubert, Berlioz, or Toselli, say; but never does it occur to me to turn to Haydn, a fellow I always think of as just missing the Mozartian and Beethovenian luxury liners. Then when I'm forced to hear him, I kick myself for my stupidity.